Museum, History: China National Museum

The lobby

Tian’an Men Square is the largest public square on the planet. More than a half a mile long and a quarter mile wide, it is a massive open-space. Three buildings frame the northern expanse. On the north is the gate to the Forbidden City. To the west is the Great Hall of the People, China's parliament. Massive and iconic structures. To the east is a structure built to hold its own in that daunting company, China's National Museum.

The building was built in tandem with the Great Hall to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic. It has the feel of 1950s Soviet triumphal architecture - built to exceed the scale of previous Chinese regimes. It is big. They say it houses more than 1 million artifacts - I did not count - it was big. If you needed to see the comprehensive collection of Chinese art, it was there for you.

But it also had the exhibits that are my favorites - their take on national history. Naturally, this also needs to be broken up into manageable pieces. China has had dynasties that last longer than the totality of American history. There are a lot of stories to tell. The 20th century alone would be compelling enough for a great museum. In this museum, it was just a great exhibit. One of many.

Even so, the 20th Century is an exceptional time for China. It starts with the humiliation of invasions and colonial exploitation. The Japanese are cut no slack in their portrayal, not softened at all by the passage of time. Western capitalism fares little better. There is no ambiguity about who the bad guys were, when China was down. But that is not the story.  The theme, in fact the title of the exhibit is the Road to Rejuvenation. It is the story of China, slaying its dragons one by one. First the Emperor, then the Japanese, then capitalism followed by modernization and next? I think the conclusion they want you to reach is that they will accomplish anything they set themselves too. The final display? Equipment that might be used in a Chinese lunar landing. Is China going to the moon? They will if they want to.