Beijing, 1st site: Tian’an Men Square.

Tian’an Men Square, just the name of the place conjures up images and memories of the darkest moments in recent Chinese history. Being on the Square, you can still sense the legacy of that time.  As much as the Chinese government would like everyone to forget it ever happened, for me, the experience of Tiananmen Square was a series of reminders both of the results of that day, but also of the government’s failings and insecurities both then and now.

Tian’an Men Square is described as the largest public square in the world and its scale does not fail to impress - once you get there. But getting there is not as simple as just moseying on over. Unlike any other square I have encountered, access to Tian’an Men is tightly controlled. Though the square is ringed by large boulevards and served by three subway stops - creating the potential for many paths to and from - the government apparently does not want it to be that easy. Instead, the squares long perimeter is mostly enclosed by a low fence. Entry and exit happens only at designated points watched over by both local police and the army and happens only after you pass through airport style security screening. What are they afraid you will bring in to the Square? No idea. And is there a reason to worry more than the Russians worry about Red Square or the Germans about Brandenburger Tor? Or are they just being paranoid?

Once you get to the Square, the overriding sense I got was of emptiness. The Square is massive and in it you find just a flagpole and a rather nondescript memorial monument. That and a bunch of people milling about. Oh and soldiers - lots of soldiers. At the south end and technically still ‘in the square’ is Mao's Mausoleum.  Perhaps the square’s big draw. Every day thousands line up to pass quickly (double file) past the Great Helmsman's crystal coffin and earthly remains (or wax likeness?)

In the afternoon, after the MAO-so-leum closes, the square thins out and then at sunset, it closes. The soldiers start in the north and step shoulder to shoulder towards the south exits, guiding stragglers out of the space. Don't want anyone thinking they can camp out.  That's how all the trouble started last time.

WiT? Clue:  Was this American out of place, memorialized in China?  It was at a school of politics and law, among a pantheon of giants.  I think the point they were trying to make was the importance of the rule of law to a civilized society.  If so, then yes - he would make that point.