Turkey: Government Center

We saw it many times before trying to visit. An imposing complex, it sits atop a ridge along one of Ankara's main streets. It is not just the Parliament building, but an entire government complex that lies behind tall gates and significant security. You can't really get close, without actually going in.

I suppose that should not be surprising in this environment of terrorism that so many countries are experiencing. Letting people wander up close to a building is sadly an invitation to a suicide bomber. And yes, Turkey does have a terrorism problem. There is a Kurdish separatist group and they have initiated attacks in the past. Turkey does need to keep its guard up.

By now, for me, visiting a Parliament has become something of a barometer of a government's attitude about interacting with the public. It's not just about getting inside but also about who they keep out and how they let you in. So even though Murat told me not to worry - he knew people and could arrange a visit - I decided to go on my own to see what a foreigner without connections would experience.

What I experienced was nothing short of amazing. It started pretty inauspiciously. As we approached the building there was a nice view up the hill, so I decided to stop and take picture. That's set off the security. Guards started whistling and motioning and I thought it was because somehow they knew I was about to jaywalk. But no, the area is a military zone. You're not supposed to take pictures. I guess the thinking is that those pictures might be used to plan an assault?  You are also not supposed to go up the stairs that seem to lead to the building. There is no gate there and though it looks like an entrance, it is ceremonial and the guards won't let you passed the first step. The real entrance is around the corner. So off we went.

When we got there, we were met naturally by guard. He spoke no English and I spoke no Turkish. He signaled for us to wait. A second guard with some English ability arrived, welcomed us, and asked us what we were doing there. “We want to visit the Parliament.” He was not sure about that, but walked us to the next security check and told us to ask there. First, we went through security - airport style, not at all unusual, they do that at the County Court House in Martinez. We cleared and they took us to the security command and again asked us what we wanted. Again, no one spoke enough English for us to explain.

What was remarkable was how they all dealt with this incomprehensible intrusion. They were extremely patient and determined to work things out. Eventually we found someone to translate and again I began to explain who I was and why I was on their doorstep. Apparently I said the magic word – professor.  The reaction was instantaneous and humbling.  The police officer in charge of security took my hand, kissed it and put it to his forehead.   He would personally show us the Parliament.

Again, his English and my Turkish were about equal, but he was determined. He led us across the complex pointing out things along the way, greeting sentries and pulling out his keys to open locked doors. One of those doors was the door to the Gallery of the Assembly chamber. Here he grabbed a journalist who was passing by and pressed him into service as a translator. He described the space and who goes where, when they are session. We got a real tour of the space. Strangers, who appeared unannounced.

But that was not the end. After the chambers. He invited us to lunch in the Parliament’s cafeteria. We declined, but accepted tea. Again he grabbed a passerby and impressed him to translate. We talked about our trip, his family, ours, Turkey, the US. We had a great chat, then he invited us to his house to meet his family and have dinner. He would send a car to pick us up at our hotel. Astonishing, yet for Turkey I don't think all that unusual. If you are a guest they are determined to take care of you. We could not accept his kind offer but his generosity was unforgettable.