Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Turkey: Commerce

Upscale Istanbul Mall
The point of looking at commerce in a society is that by doing so you can gain some insight into several aspects of life. The kinds of transactions people engage in and the ways they engage in them are quite revealing. In Europe (Belgium, France and Germany - all three) I was blown away by the number of Nespresso™ stores. Their prime (expensive) locations and the crowds in them to buy what is an expensive luxury. All told, it said to me: Life is good in Western Europe.

There's a lot of coffee for sale in Turkey, but not at Nespresso™ stores. Even so, I did find very high end shopping malls where just about any other thing a western consumer might want could be found. (I am sure there is a Nespresso™ store, too if you search for it). If you are looking for some international brand name item in Turkey’s major cities, it will not be hard for you to find. In a mall in Ankara they have dedicated stores for brands (Samsung, for example) that would be one product among many offered at a US department stores. The result is a selection of products more varied than might be found in the United States.
The Grand Bazaar

There's another slice Turkish to commerce besides the malls, of course and it is probably the dominant mode. At the malls, like at home, you wander until you see something that interests you, and pop in to see if you want to buy it. The retailing is pretty passive. That is not the way it is on the streets of Turkey. Now it is true that neither MC nor I look Turkish.  In fact, I expect that our appearance pretty much screamed: foreigner (read tourist) and that made us a target. (A note on MC’s appearance: Turkish women do not have gray hair. It's like a miracle of genetics - or something). Turkish shopkeepers are anything but passive. They often stand in front of their store beckoning you to come in – “Just have a look. You don't have to buy”  They are experts at starting conversations. They avoid yes/no questions, preferring “Where are you from?” They always know someone from there and you are now chatting… “Come on inside, let me show you something…”

Similar businesses tend to cluster
Another device we encountered often enough to recognize and learn to dodge is the: ‘let me give you directions’ ploy.  You can always tell a tourist by their map. Look at a map in public and you are marked. “Where do you want to go?  Why, I am just going that way myself. I'll show you.”  Somehow, your route always takes you right past the shop where they have a friend who will make a great deal for you. It may even be true, but I didn't want a carpet. We read in the guidebook that these folks work on commission and act as agents like salesmen (yes, it was only men) everywhere, they are just beating the pavement looking for customers.

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