Friday, February 4, 2011

Istanbul, 1st site: Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque.

Not the effect the Sultan was aiming for
It is somewhat ironic that the old city of Istanbul is so thoroughly dominated by monumental religious structures, the Hagia Sophia and the Sultan Ahmed (a.k.a. Blue) Mosque. It is ironic because although the space is consumed by these structures, the religiosity does not seem to extend beyond a visual façade.


The Blue Mosque
Literally within a few meters of each other lie a building intended as a showpiece of Christianity and its counterpart the Blue Mosque designed to reflect the Sultan’s perspective of the superiority of his empire and his religion over the relics of the old Byzantine order

Both buildings are truly impressive in scope. The Blue Mosque has a reported capacity of 10,000 worshipers and the Hagia Sophia is actually the larger of the two structures. The Blue Mosque, built on the ruins of the old Byzantine emperor’s Palace, is perceived to rise above the Hagia Sophia. This was the desired effect. Though it doesn't look like it, the mosque, benefits from a slightly higher elevation. The interior of the Blue Mosque is dominated by thousands of ceramic tiles, blue in color, which give the mosque its name. It's interior would dwarf any interior space except perhaps a modern sporting venue or, of course, that of its neighbor - ‘the church across the street’.

Hagia Sopia
That church across the street is, of course, no longer a church. It sceased to be that with the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople (Istanbul) in 1453. For the next (nearly) 500 years, it was one of Islam's most important mosques - until the Turkish republic. In 1935 Ataturk made it a museum - what it is today. A secular space.

And the ‘mosque across the street’? Though still used as a place of worship, I'd wager it sees more tourist visitors than worshipers in the course of the year. The Blue Mosque, like Notre Dame in Paris, is more of a tourist attraction than anything else. The imposing religious site has been overtaken by the secular world and its economic pursuits.

Playing WiT?  Here's a clue:  Forget Jean Monnet - the EU was this guy's idea.  He just had different methods.

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