Havana, Second Site: ‘Old Havana’

Let's be frank, in comparison to the other cities included in this project (Moscow, Berlin, Istanbul) Havana is just not in the same league. Cuba is a small country and Havana has not been at the center of world history. A Top 10 list of things to do in Havana consists mostly of smoking, drinking and cruising. There are not a lot of must see sights. Unless you count an entire neighborhood as a site.

Then, Old Havana makes everyone's list and even if there is no one particular spot, or one particular event that stands out, as a whole that part of town represents the best of Cuba. At least the best of what it was and perhaps the best of what it could be. I am not so sure about the present.

Havana does have a past. Already at beginning of the 17th century Havana was an important part of Spain's American empire. Counting on the strength in numbers as a way to protect their ships from piracy, Spain would bring its ships to Havana from throughout the New World and then from there they would sail together for Spain. A lot of wealth was passing through town and a lot of people hanging out. Havana prospered.

Prosperity left its mark. Old Havana boasts grand old public buildings as well as the homes and haunts of the wealthy. The oldest part of the city (between the cathedral and Plaza San Francisco) has the feel of colonial Spain and presents one architectural gem after another as you stroll along the quiet streets that though not a pedestrian zone, see so little traffic that they might as well be.

Moving inland from the colonial quarter, you see the product of the 19th and 20th centuries.  Still a time of relative prosperity - at least for those at the top of the economic pyramid. They build their baubles to show off and to play in.  The Capitolio and the Gran Teatro are excellent examples of a society and a class confident in its wealth, power and future.

Three Buildings: Decaying, Restored, In Process

Only things did not work out the way they expected. With the revolution, most of Cuba's wealth and wealthy citizens fled the country. The opulent buildings and the activities they housed were no longer needed and fell into disuse. Many have not aged gracefully. Today, as tourists begin to make Havana a regular part of the Caribbean vacation scene, some of these places are recapturing their grandeur. You can wonder if it is a good thing. They are being fixed up - but not for Cubans. That part felt wrong and bothered me. Is the day coming when they can enjoy it, too?