Havana, 1st Site: Plaza de la Revolucion

Red Square in Moscow. Alexanderplatz in the GDR. It should come as no surprise that I would find one in Cuba. Every Soviet style regime had one. They were a vital part of the propaganda playbook. On May 1, international Worker’s Day, there was going to be a big parade to celebrate the revolution and the worker’s regime it had produced. The masses would turn out, not just as spectators but also as participants. The size of the throng was testimony to the support of the people. The ability of the regime to defend itself against both imperialist aggressors abroad and their lackeys at home would be displayed. It was all about messaging. “Don't mess with us. We are powerful.”

Staging that message effectively requires an appropriate space. The Plaza de la Revolucion fills the bill, perfectly. The centerpiece of the Plaza is the memorial to José Marti. Visible for miles, it is easily Havana's tallest structure, which I presume makes it Cuba's tallest. Like the Washington Monument, there is no particular purpose for the height of the structure, except as a metaphor for the stature of the man. Marti towers over Cuba's history and his monument towers over Cuba itself.

At the top of the monument is an observation deck. You can, of course, pay to go up and have a look. I didn't. The base of the monument is already elevated and Havana is pretty flat. It was a pretty cloudy day and I did not think there would be much to see.  So, I just paid to visit the museum and skipped the lookout.

Ticket in hand, I entered the memorial. The guard took a quick look at my receipt and pointed me towards the elevator. I got in and next thing I knew I was at the top. I asked the guard up there about the museum  - its downstairs. So, back down I go (I did sneak a peek while waiting for the next elevator. I was right. Nothing to see on a cloudy day). Why the mix-up?  Auto pilot. Tourists don't visit the museum.  Actually it seems almost no one does. In the hour I was there, I was alone. Dozens of people rode up to have a look but none stopped to see the Marti exhibits. That's not what tourists come to Havana for.

Fidel's Chair

The Plaza de la Revolucion lays at the foot of the Marti Memorial, the base of which doubles as a speakers rostrum and reviewing stand. It was not hard to imagine May Day. Fidel in his place, presiding over the spectacle. Looking out he would see the visages of his ‘sainted’ revolutionary comrades, the world famous Ché and the lesser-known Camilo Cienfuegos, both martyrs to the revolution and role

John Paul's Visit

models for the Cuban people. A massive and impressive stage. The day I visited, like most days I expect, it was largely empty. I found it somewhat ironic that I only saw two pictures of the plaza in use. One was in the Museum of the Revolution, a May Day a military parade. The other showed the square viewed from the lookout above, filled to capacity. The speaker that day? Pope John Paul II.

WiT? Clue:  Speaking of JP II, he'd have guessed this one straight away.  As a matter of fact, he might have been able to see it from his house.