Horta and Art Nouveau in Brussels

This Saturday was a beautiful sunny day in Brussels, and after being here for several weeks now, we have come to appreciate these lovely days. I don't want to say that the weather here is bad but the word "grey" would be a much more accurate description.  So we had to take advantage of this opportunity.

Brussels and Belgium are known for many things, it's sprouts, frites, mussels, endives, chocolate, waffle and beer among others but also for it's "art nouveau" architecture by Victor Horta.  There is a whole circuit one can walk to admire all these fabulous buildings dating back to the early 1900's.  We have certainly come across a few of them already in our wanderings around the city but it was pretty hap hazard and no way to really appreciate them.  Now was the time to see them including the interior of the house he built for himself.

A little background on Victor (from Wikipedia), 

Victor, Horta (6 January 1861 - 9 September 1947) was a Belgian architect and designer. John Julius Norwich described him as "undoubtedly the key European Art Nouveau architect." Indeed, Horta is one of the most important names in Art Nouveau architecture; the construction of his Hôtel Tassel in Brussels in 1892-3 means that he is sometimes credited as the first to introduce the style to architecture from the decorative arts.

The first house we went to see is at Place Ambiorix, an upscale neighborhood, across the street from a fabulous park.  Although the front entrance was under some kind of renovation one could still marvel at this building only 13 meters wide (about 40 feet).  The other houses were clustered in a couple adjacent neighborhoods and were quite interesting. Brussels' residential architecture is nice, but for the most part not all that exceptional.  An eclectic mix of old (200 years or so) and new (yesterday) and then here and there you find these Art Noveau gems folded in to the mix.  They are gorgeous from the outside and you wonder what they are like on the inside.

Well, you don't really have to wonder.  Several are open to the public, including the house Horta built himself. It is preserved as a museum and was something quite surprising and magical. You had to queue up outside since they only let a few people in at a time. But it was worth the wait.  Once they let you in the door, it really was like they were letting you into Horta's home.  They had much of the original furniture and fittings as he used it.  A lot of the rooms had the furniture specially constructed and permanently 

affixed. He was big on built-ins.  In the bedroom he had a closet that housed what appeared to be a unisex urinal that swung out so that you would not have to take the 20 foot walk to the "Crapper".  Yes, they had an original, gen-u-ine Crapper ®.  Even it was beautiful.

The rooms were built off a central staicase and the floors were staggered with a room or two off of each landing.  They said no pictures but not everyone follows rules (Scott could not resist the Crapper) Someone has taken them so here is the link to experience the beauty of this house.  Hope you enjoy as much as we did.  More Photos