Saturday, July 12, 2014

Wandering around Rio

We went to Rio mostly because you can't go to Brazil without visiting Rio. Without Rio, you can't really say you have been to Brazil. But after seeing the beaches and visiting the heights, what else is there? We were not really sure. We had done those things, but it did not really feel like we had seen the real Rio. We decided to go downtown and just spend the day wandering around.

Lonely Planet provided us with a walking tour and we just followed their lead. Well, after a side trip to one of Soccer’s most fabled grounds, anyway. You can’t visit Rio and skip the Maracana, can you? So we rode the metro over. Maracana has its own stop, as befits the most important structure in Brazil. It is very convenient. Hop across a short bridge and you’re at the stadium.

Four days before it’s first match was probably not the best time to visit. The grounds were buttoned up tight with crews busily adding their finishing touches. We could look, but we couldn't go in. Oh well, it was fun just to be there. Our first real taste of the global nature of the World Cup. Fans from everywhere, dreaming that they are standing in front of that place where magic will happen, where their team will win the cup. Before the first kick off, anyone can dream.

From there, we headed back downtown and climbed out at Rio’s Central Square and began wandering. We passed some nice old buildings, some nice new buildings, and a couple of museums. We passed them without visiting - not because we weren’t interested, mind you. Rather because they weren’t open. The palace seemed like it could be visited but though we found it, we could not find anything to look at other than a scale model in the foyer. There were several employees - but none could help us.  No one spoke a language we spoke. We tried the next museum. Brazil's Natural History. They were on strike.

The walk over was not a total loss. One of the picketers spoke French and so I got a firsthand account of why at least one Brazilian was upset about the World Cup. She made a lot of sense. They built a $300 million stadium in Manaus that will be used for 10 days - but there is no money for museums. I get it.  But no museum visit.  She helpfully pointed us towards the Dali exhibit - which closed yesterday. Oh well, we keep wandering.

Eventually the path took us someplace fun. Rio has a massive central market, not unlike Istanbul's bazaar. Merchants’ stalls are jammed one against the next, all selling ‘Brasíliana’ it seemed. There was nothing you could not get adorned with Brazil’s flag or colors. Not that I wanted that stuff - but it was fun to see.

From the market we wandered past Rio's Cathedral. interesting shape - I'm sure there's a story - but I don't know it.  And on into Lapa one of Rio's funky Samba districts. It would've been fun to go back and visit the clubs, but we heard the neighborhood was better in the daylight.
It was early in our trip and we were probably a bit over concerned about crime, so we passed. Shoulda, woulda, coulda…  we did get to see Rio’s version of Rome’s Spanish steps. More colorful and fun and like everywhere else packed with roving bands of fans, chanting and taking their “I was there” shots. We got ours, too and now we could say: Rio, been there, done that. Let’s play some futbol!

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