Cuba, Second site: Mausoleum of Ché

Lenin, Napoleon, Ataturk, Mao, Jefferson - I've seen the final resting place of a bunch of important historic figures.  The treatment of the body always seems to be a function of the utility of the person to the government of the day. That said, it should not surprise anyone that Ché’s final resting place would be a big deal in Cuba.

Ché is a big deal in Cuba. He is the embodiment of the revolution, its history, its ideals, its future (or so they hope). The image of Ché is ubiquitous, rivaled only by the figure of José Marti and of the two, it appears that Ché is by far the more useful. Marti is a quiet presence, meant to connect the revolution to its past. Ché is an activist, even in death, exhorting Cuba and down trodden people everywhere to engage in endless struggle against… - whatever we are struggling against today.

Your Ché Store

Ché really is the perfect revolutionary icon. He is extraordinarily charismatic - a quality that literally jumps off the page at you, not only in that extraordinary and literally world-famous Korda photo but in countless others seen in all corners of Cuban society. Ché makes the guerilla look cool. But he had more than image - he had rhetoric also “Hasta la Victoria Siempre!”  (until victory always) an inspirational catchphrase backed up with speeches and books. And he walked the walk.  As Minister of Industry, he rolled up his sleeves to do manual labor, he left the comfort and safety of government to lead insurrections in Africa and ultimately, where he died with his boots on, in Bolivia.

And that last bit is no doubt the cherry on top for Cuba's current regime. He's a martyr and martyrs do not criticize current policies. You can say “it's what Ché would want” without fear of contradiction. He's perfect.

And so of course his mausoleum is a big deal. It is in Santa Clara a provincial capital strategically located at Cuba's center. Why there? As the guidebook put it, “in a place where Ché was not born and neither lived nor died”? Santa Clara was the site of a pivotal battle in Cuba’s 1958 revolution. There, forces commanded by Ché defeated Batista's regular Army, captured important weapons and the town, which controlled a transportation hub that links North and South, East and West. After Santa Clara, the handwriting was on the wall and Batista's government collapsed quickly.

Part of the train they derailed...

Santa Clara is, then, a monument to the revolution and its military victory. It's central square contains artifacts of the battle and the Mausoleum not far away represents an important ceremonial space for annual remembrances of that victory. The mausoleum itself is remarkable and somewhat understated compared to Napoleon. It houses not just Ché but many other revolutionary martyrs and was actually built before Ché’s remains were found and were returned to Cuba. Next door is a museum dedicated to Ché’s life and work. Full of artifacts and pictures. In toto, Santa Clara has become a tourist attraction and essential part of the tour packages that divert sunseekers interested in more than just a beach. It pairs well with the commercialization of Ché’s image on T-shirts, bags - even refrigerator magnets. Somehow I doubt Ché would approve. 


Wit? Clue.  This statue was a big deal.  Big when it went in, big when it disappeared.  It's still big.